18th Century Working Clothing
SHIFT OR CHEMISE:
What we might consider to be 18th century underwear and also can act as a nightgown. It is the first layer or undergarment. It has a oval-shaped drawstring neckline 4 inches below collarbone, drawstring sleeves with the length below the elbow but not to wrist, and the length ending just below the knees to the calves. Made of a light to medium weight white linen.
STAYS (CORSET):
Stays were worn over the chemise or shift and under the shortgown bodice. Women often carried pots weighing up to 70 pounds and the stays offered women support for the lower back. The stays were made of leather or heavy linen with vertical strips of bone completely around the garment. It laced up in the front, back or both. The laced opening was no wider than 2 inches. Colors were natural, brown, tan or dull green.
PETTICOAT:
21st century people would refer to this as a skirt. Colonial women wore at least two petticoats and as many as 15 at one time with the idea of being very full at the hips. It could come with or without a waistband. With waistband the petticoat would have pleats with a drawstring. The length was to the ankle or just below. Circumference of the bottom was about 90 inches. The sides would had a 9 ˝ inch slit for pockets. Made of medium to heavy weight linen, wool, linsey-woolsey. In the winter it was often quilted for warmth. Solid, stripes, checks, or plaid and the colors are dull red, dull green, tan, black, variety of blues, rust, gold, brown, orange, yellow, plum, lavender or wine.
SHORTGOWN:
A shortgown was worn over the chemise and petticoats and held closed in the front with a straight pin. A shortgown is the equivalent of our blouse. It is loose fitting which makes it perfect as everyday work clothing. It is cut from the material in one piece. Made of medium to heavy weight linen, wool, linsey-woolsey. Solid, stripes, or plaid and the colors are dull red, dull green, tan, black, variety of blues, rust, gold, brown, orange, yellow, plum, lavender or wine.
APRON:
Aprons were for the protection of the petticoat. An apron was worn over the petticoat and held the bottom of the shortgown closed. Heavy work aprons were made of dark colored linen, stripes or plaids, while dressier aprons were of white linen. It was a 36 inch square with a drawstring waistband to be tied in the front, so the ties would fall into the fire.
POCKETS:
Pockets were worn under the petticoats or at times under the top layer of petticoats or, if embroidered, on top of the petticoats. Pockets were between 12 to 18 inches in length and 10 inches wide. They were worn either singly or in pairs, positioned on the hips and accessed through slits in the petticoats. Pockets were made of linen, canvas or cotton. Elizabeth Chads hid her silver spoons in her pockets during the battle and occupation of the Brandywine and Chadds Ford.
HANDKERCHIEF:
A 18 inch triangle made of white linen or cotton. It was worn around the neckline and tucked into the front of the shortgown. A handkerchief was optional piece of clothing, sometimes referred to a “modesty piece”.
CAPS:
During this time period women kept their hair covered. Caps served to keep dirt out of the hair and keep the hair out of the fire. Caps were made of white light to medium weight linen. Women had a choice of styles to show their individuality.
STOCKINGS:
Stocking were knee to thigh high with a garter to keep in place. Made of linen, cotton or wool in colors of white, blue, brown, light blue, tan, charcoal, or grey.
SHOES:
The shoes were black leather with a wooden sole. It had a low-heel and closed in the front with a buckle.
WHERE TO PURCHASE:
Try Jas. Townsend & Son, Inc. at www.jastown.com or call 800-338-1665.